Cartier Pasha Revival: Bringing the 80s to the 20s
Few watches carry the weight of a decade quite like the Pasha de Cartier. Originally launched in 1985, it became the definitive symbol of power-dressing and extroverted luxury. Now, as we navigate the start of a new decade, the Maison has looked back to move forward. The Cartier Pasha 2020 collection is not merely a nostalgic reissue; it is a sophisticated evolution of a cult classic that bridges the gap between the bold aesthetics of the 1980s and the technical demands of the 2020s. For enthusiasts who have long viewed the Pasha as a personal grail, this revival is the moment we have been waiting for.
The Legend of the Pasha: From Marrakech to Genta
To understand why the Cartier Pasha 2020 is creating such a stir in the horological community, one must look at its origins. While the legend suggests the watch was commissioned in 1932 by the Pasha of Marrakech—who desired a timepiece suitable for his daily swims—the watch we recognize today was born in the mid-80s. Designed by the legendary Gerald Genta, the man behind the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, the Pasha was a departure from Cartier’s usual rectangular silhouettes.
Genta’s vision was a masterclass in geometric tension: a square rail-track minute circle set inside a perfectly round case. It was a "luxury sports watch" before the term was a marketing staple. Today, that DNA remains untouched, but the execution has been refined to meet the standards of modern collectors who demand both style and substance.
Design Codes: The Square in the Circle
The first thing you notice during a wristshot with the new Cartier Pasha 2020 is how the light plays off the polished bezel. The watch retains its signature "Vendôme" lugs—those distinctive bar-style attachments that give the watch its unique architectural presence. However, the 2020 iteration introduces several subtle but vital upgrades.
The most iconic feature remains the chained crown cover. Unscrewing the cap reveals a smaller winding crown, now set with a blue spinel or sapphire, matching the one on the cap. This "canteen" style crown was originally intended for water resistance, and while the Pasha isn't exactly a desk diver meant for professional saturation diving, its 100-meter water resistance ensures it can handle a weekend at the coast with ease. A new addition for 2020 is the space under the crown cover, which allows for a personalized engraving—a hidden secret known only to the wearer.
Technical Excellence: The 1847 MC Caliber
While the 80s version relied on various movements over the years, the Cartier Pasha 2020 is powered by the robust in-house Caliber 1847 MC. This automatic movement is a significant step up in terms of modern utility. It features non-magnetic nickel-phosphorus components for the escapement and an integrated shield made of a paramagnetic alloy. In an age where our wrists are constantly surrounded by magnetic fields from laptops and smartphones, this is a welcome technical upgrade.
The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal caseback—a first for the standard Pasha line. Seeing the finishing on the 1847 MC adds a layer of horological transparency that modern collectors crave. The lume on the blued-steel sword-shaped hands is sharp, providing excellent legibility in low light, though the Pasha remains a watch that shines brightest under the sun.
Technical Specifications
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Caliber | Cartier Manufacture 1847 MC (Automatic) |
| Case Material | Stainless Steel, 18K Yellow Gold, or 18K Pink Gold |
| Dimensions | 41mm (Thickness: 9.55mm) or 35mm (Thickness: 9.37mm) |
| Water Resistance | 10 bar (approx. 100 meters / 330 feet) |
| Complications | Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date (41mm model only) |
| Bracelet/Strap | QuickSwitch Interchangeable System; SmartLink adjustment |
Versatility and the QuickSwitch System
In the modern landscape, a watch needs to be more than just a beautiful object; it needs to be versatile. Cartier has addressed this by outfitting the Cartier Pasha 2020 with their proprietary QuickSwitch system. This allows the wearer to swap between a steel bracelet and a leather strap in seconds without the need for specialized tools.
For those opting for the steel bracelet, the SmartLink system is a revelation. It allows you to add or remove links simply by pressing a button on the underside of each link. Gone are the days of needing a jeweler’s screwdriver or risking scratches on your new timepiece. This level of user-centric design makes the Pasha a candidate for a "one-watch collection" or a high-end beater for the discerning traveler.
On the Wrist: 41mm vs 35mm
The 2020 launch includes two primary sizes: 41mm and 35mm. The 41mm version feels contemporary and masculine, with a date window tucked between 4 and 5 o'clock. The 35mm version, which lacks the date window, offers a cleaner, more symmetrical dial that leans into the vintage aesthetic.
On the wrist, the watch wears flatter than its predecessors. The integration of the lugs and the case thickness of under 10mm allows it to slide effortlessly under a shirt cuff. Yet, it possesses enough wrist presence to stand out when worn casually with a polo or linen shirt. While vintage Pashas often develop a charming patina on their tritium dials, the new 2020 models use Super-LumiNova and high-grade materials that promise to stay crisp for decades to come.
A New Era for an Icon
The Cartier Pasha 2020 is a testament to the enduring power of good design. By keeping the core silhouette that Genta perfected in 1985 and injecting it with 21st-century movement technology and ergonomic features, Cartier has successfully bridged the gap between two very different eras.
Whether you are a long-time fan of the Maison or a new collector looking for a luxury sports watch that defies the usual tropes of the category, the new Pasha is a compelling proposition. It is a watch that celebrates the joy of being different—circular yet square, sporty yet elegant, and undeniably Cartier. As we look forward to the rest of the year, it is clear that the Pasha has not just returned; it has reclaimed its throne.
