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Best watches of 2020

2020 Year in Review: The Great Watch Pivot

By Isabella Rossi5 min read
2020 Year in Review: The Great Watch Pivot
Image: Dent, Rolex, Breitling, H. Moser & Cie, Tudor, Seiko, Omega

As we stand on the precipice of a new year, looking back at the last twelve months feels like examining a decade’s worth of evolution compressed into a single calendar. To say that 2020 was a year of upheaval for the horological world would be an understatement. With the cancellation of Baselworld and the digital transformation of Watches & Wonders, the industry was forced to find new ways to connect with enthusiasts. Yet, amidst the global uncertainty, the manufacture houses delivered some of the most memorable timepieces in recent history. In this retrospective, we dive deep into the best watches of 2020, exploring how the 'Great Watch Pivot' redefined our collections and our expectations.

The Digital Shift and the New Normal

For decades, the watch industry relied on the physical grandeur of trade shows. 2020 changed the script. We traded champagne flutes in Geneva for high-resolution Zoom calls and augmented reality apps. This shift allowed brands to speak directly to the collector, making the hunt for a new grail feel more personal than ever. Despite the logistical hurdles, the sheer quality of the releases proved that horology is as resilient as a 1970s tool watch. From the resurgence of integrated bracelets to the refinement of vintage-inspired divers, the best watches of 2020 reflected a desire for both nostalgia and forward-thinking engineering.

The Crown Evolves: The Rolex Submariner 41mm

No discussion of the year’s most significant releases is complete without mentioning the new Rolex Submariner. When the rumors began circulating about a 41mm case size, the purists were skeptical. However, upon seeing the first wristshots of the reference 124060, it became clear that Rolex had achieved a masterstroke of design. By thinning the lugs and widening the bracelet, they created a watch that actually wears more elegantly than its 40mm predecessor.

This release topped many lists of the best watches of 2020 because it addressed the 'maxi-case' criticisms while upgrading the internals to the Caliber 3230. It remains the quintessential desk diver, offering 300 meters of water resistance and a Chromalight lume that glows with surgical precision.

Technical Specifications: Rolex Submariner 124060

Feature Specification
Caliber Rolex Manufacture 3230 (Automatic)
Case Material Oystersteel
Dimensions 41mm Diameter, 12.3mm Thickness
Water Resistance 300 Meters (1,000 Feet)
Complications Time Only (No-Date)
Bracelet/Strap Oyster Bracelet with Glidelock Extension

The Blue Wave: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight "Navy Blue"

If Rolex provided the technical evolution, Tudor provided the emotional resonance. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight "Navy Blue" was perhaps the most anticipated release of the summer. Building on the massive success of the black-and-gilt original BB58, this blue iteration tapped into the historical "Tudor Submariner" models issued to the French Marine Nationale.

With its 39mm case and lack of a date window, it is the perfect size for almost any wrist. The matte blue dial lacks any faux-patina, giving it a modern, crisp aesthetic that feels fresh yet grounded in heritage. It quickly became a contender for the best watches of 2020 for those seeking a high-value daily wearer that can handle everything from a weekend at the beach to a formal dinner.

Omega and the Snoopy Magic

Omega chose the tail end of the year to drop a bombshell: the Speedmaster "Silver Snoopy Award" 50th Anniversary. While the Speedmaster is a staple of any collection, this specific model transcended the typical 'Moonwatch' tropes. The caseback is a mechanical marvel, featuring an animation of Snoopy in his Command Service Module that orbits the moon when the chronograph is running.

This watch isn't just a piece of horology; it’s a piece of storytelling. By combining the legendary Caliber 3861 with a vibrant blue and silver color palette, Omega secured its spot in the best watches of 2020 rankings. It’s a watch that reminds us why we love this hobby—it’s supposed to be fun.

The Rise of the Integrated Bracelet: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner

While the giants of the industry dominated the headlines, the independent sector saw a massive surge in interest. The H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Centre Seconds proved that the integrated bracelet trend still has room for innovation. Moving away from the Genta-inspired tropes of the 70s, the Streamliner draws inspiration from the high-speed trains of the 1920s and 30s.

Its fluid, organic lines and 'Matrix Green' fumé dial make it one of the most visually striking pieces of the year. For the collector who already has a Royal Oak or a Nautilus, the Streamliner represents a new frontier in high-end sports watches. It is undoubtedly one of the best watches of 2020 for its sheer audacity and execution.

Value and Versatility: The Seiko SPB143

Not every great watch needs a five-figure price tag. Seiko’s re-interpretation of their first diver, the 62MAS, in the form of the SPB143, took the enthusiast world by storm. With a 40.5mm case, a grey sunray dial, and a robust 6R35 movement, it became the 'everyman's' beater of choice.

What makes the SPB143 stand out among the best watches of 2020 is its balance. It feels significantly more premium than its price point suggests, offering a Diashield coating that keeps the case looking new despite the inevitable scratches of daily life. It’s a watch that looks just as good on a NATO strap as it does on its stainless steel bracelet.

Conclusion: A Year of Resilience

The best watches of 2020 tell a story of an industry that refused to stand still. We saw Rolex refine an icon, Tudor embrace its military roots, and Omega bring a sense of whimsy back to the chronograph. We also saw smaller brands like Moser challenge the status quo, proving that innovation isn't reserved for the largest conglomerates.

As we look forward to 2021, the lessons of this year remain clear: the passion for horology isn't tied to a physical trade show or a glamorous launch event. It lives in the mechanical heartbeat of the timepieces themselves and the community of collectors who continue to find joy in the details of a dial or the sweep of a second hand. Whether you added a new grail to your box this year or spent the months researching your next purchase, 2020 has been a landmark year for watchmaking excellence.